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Saturday 12 September 2026 · Ep 200 · Curated by Mike Litman

Taobao's Uglies Award grows China's ugly goods market to 230 million yuan

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In this episode

1Brand and Business

China's 'ugly goods' economy hits 230 million yuan and keeps climbing

Taobao's Uglies Award, launched in 2020 as a quirky internal celebration, has seeded a 230-million-yuan market in deliberately unappealing products. The sales suggest some younger shoppers are rejecting polished design as a signal of taste.

Why it mattersBrands built on beautiful design may need to watch whether that taste spreads.

Via South China Morning Post

Four more signals

2Art and Photography

Calvin Klein stages its show among Walter De Maria works.

Why it mattersAt Calvin Klein, art is carrying the intellectual identity of the show rather than serving as a backdrop.

Via Cultured Magazine

On our radar beforeCalvin Klein has now come up in 3 of our 200 episodes. First: Ep 37, 2 Apr. Latest: Ep 114, 18 Jun. Every episode on Calvin Klein.

3Design and Architecture

McLaren is redesigning its dealerships to look like Gucci stores.

Why it mattersThe retail environment becomes part of what McLaren sells.

Via Hypebeast
4Music and Entertainment

Helena Gao is going viral in China by treating her Danish-Chinese identity as creative raw material, not biography.

Why it mattersChinese audiences are rewarding cultural complexity, as Helena Gao turns a mixed identity into creative material rather than a caption.

Via Dazed
5Fashion and Style

Tom Sachs builds Chanel a boutique from plywood and Lego.

Why it mattersChanel signed off on an installation that comments on its archive instead of revering it.

Via Vogue
What it means

Imperfection became a premium signal. Refinement lost the argument.

Taobao's ugly goods market reaching 230 million yuan, Tom Sachs building Chanel a boutique from plywood and Lego, and McLaren redesigning its dealerships to look like Gucci stores all turn away from flawless, clinical finish. Roughness, wit and deliberate imperfection are where credibility is gathering. Polish on its own is starting to read as less authentic.

One to watch

Birkenstock will announce a second major fashion house collaboration within four months of the Etro launch, selecting a brand outside its existing streetwear partnerships.

Tomorrow, by breakfast

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Taobao's Uglies Award grows China's ugly goods market to 230 million yuanEp 200