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Sunday 20 September 2026 · Ep 208 · Curated by Mike Litman

Skims opens a London flagship at a $5 billion valuation

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In this episode

1Brand and Business

SKIMS opens a European flagship in London

Skims has opened a European flagship in London at a $5 billion valuation. The brand priced its clothing like premium lingerie and sold it direct online before opening shops.

Why it mattersBuilding community first and physical stores second offers a model other American consumer brands could follow.

Via Vogue

Five more signals

2Fashion and Style

Glenn Martens exits Diesel. Creative directors now rotate, not tenure.

Why it mattersGlenn Martens leaving Diesel shows creative directors rotating rather than staying for decades, testing how well brand systems survive.

Via The Industry Fashion

On our radar beforeDiesel has now come up in 2 of our 208 episodes. First: Ep 101, 5 Jun.

3Culture and Ideas

CFDA's chief quits after a physical confrontation with activists goes viral.

Why it mattersThe episode shows fashion's trade bodies can face the same reputational swings as the brands they represent.

Via South China Morning Post
4Music and Entertainment

Apple stages a photography exhibition to sell a camera phone.

Why it mattersApple selling a phone camera through an exhibition shows launches leaning on cultural commissioning as hardware differences shrink.

Via Surface Magazine

On our radar beforeApple has now come up in 29 of our 208 episodes. First: Ep 1, 25 Feb. Latest: Ep 198, 10 Sep. Every episode on Apple.

5Design and Architecture

A Ukrainian designer builds a jewellery boutique in SoHo.

Why it mattersVictoria Yakusha's Guzema flagship presents national identity as aesthetic authority.

Via Dezeen
6Tech and Digital

Indie game developers are being sold expensive YouTube campaigns that return nothing.

Why it mattersThe gap between creator-economy promises and measurable returns has become a documented business problem.

Via Kotaku

On our radar beforeYouTube has now come up in 18 of our 208 episodes. First: Ep 30, 26 Mar. Latest: Ep 186, 29 Aug. Every episode on YouTube.

What it means

Slow brands outlast clever ones. The decade just proved it.

Three stories today point in the same direction: Skims building community before retail, Rothy's growing carefully past faster DTC rivals, and Glenn Martens leaving a Diesel he transformed but could not own long-term. The brands accumulating durable value are the ones that resisted the temptation to scale before the identity was set. The ones that moved fastest, raised most, and expanded earliest are the ones now restructuring or gone. This is a selection mechanism at work, not a coincidence. Culture rewards specificity held long enough to become irreplaceable, and punishes scale chased before that specificity is load-bearing.

One to watch

Maison Margiela will announce a new creative director to replace Glenn Martens within 90 days of his final Diesel show.

Tomorrow, by breakfast

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Skims opens a London flagship at a $5 billion valuationEp 208